Tuesday 24 November 2015

Gingerbread Cookies Made With Gula Melaka


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Chewy, soft and fudgy. It must have a piping of sugary crunchy royal icing to complete this lightly spiced cookie. 
Jeff Smith, an affable, fatherly looking figure, was one of the first celebrity chefs. He had his own cooking show and a respected reputation until allegations of abuse surfaced. All was settled out of court but his career and reputation never recovered. He died a few years after the scandal. He wrote some interesting cookbooks and the first gingerbread cookie I baked was from 'The Frugal Gourmet Celebrates Christmas'. That recipe has since evolved into my recipe below.

I will not eat store bought gingerbread cookies. Not only are they often very sweet and overly spiced, too many come in a range of rainbow coloured icing or are sprinkled or studded with Smarties, M&Ms, dragees, hundreds & thousands... 

I spice my cookie dough just enough so that I can enjoy all the elements of the cookie. After all, besides the ginger and spices, the combinations of sugars are also what makes these festive cookies taste special and different. 

What's gula melaka and why do I use it? So as to not clutter my introduction with text, please scroll down to my 'Tips' section.
Have you spotted Darth Vada?
GINGERBREAD COOKIES MADE WITH GULA MELAKA
Prep:
20 minutes

Cook:

13- 15 minutes

Inactive:

1 hour for dough to completely firm up

Level:

Moderately easy

Makes:

Every cookie you see up there, plus about 8 of the smallest ones. I ate them.

Oven Temperature:

320F 160C

Can recipe be doubled?

Yes

Make ahead?

Yes, keeps well in air-tight jars for over a week. 
Just the ingredients
130g gula melaka 
1/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla essence
130g unsalted butter
130g dark brown sugar
400g plain/all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 - 1.5 teaspoons ginger powder
1 teaspoon cardamon powder
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg powder
1/8 - 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon powder
a pinch - 1/8 teaspoon cloves powder
Royal icing
1/2 (~1 and 1/2 Tablespoons) egg white
3.17oz (90g) confectioner's/icing sugar
small pinch of cream of tartar
Ingredients

130g gula melaka 
This is also labelled as 'palm sugar' and is produced in Malaysia. 'Gula' means sugar. "Melaka' is a city in the south west of Malaysia.  I use this in place of molasses, treacle or golden syrup. Better quality ones contain more palm and less refined sugar and are obviously sold in Malacca (anglicized spelling) itself. 

Often sold in cylindrical blocks, that is ~ 4.58oz (130g), at most local supermarkets and at Asian grocery stores. It has a purer, richer yet softer taste compared to treacle, molasses or golden syrup. To put it in context, I will be very happy to munch on nuggets of gula melaka but I definitely will not put a spoonful of treacle, molasses or golden syrup down my throat. For more information, please scroll down to the 'Tips' section.

Substitutes: Treacle, molasses or golden syrup. I have not used any of the latter 3 ingredients in gingerbread cookies ever since I switched to using gula melaka and then refined my recipe. I am assuming it is still good for a 1:1 swap with weights remaining unchanged as the liquid texture of gula melaka is similar to treacle, molasses and golden syrup. There should not be a need to adjust the quantity of dark brown sugar.

1/4 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon vanilla essence

130g unsalted butter

130g dark brown sugar

400g plain/all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 - 1.5 teaspoons ginger powder*

1 teaspoon cardamon powder*

1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg powder*

1/8 - 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon powder*

a pinch - 1/8 teaspoon cloves powder*

* You could narrow down the spices to 3: ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg. Increase/adjust the amount to suit your taste.

Royal icing

1/2 (~1 and 1/2 Tablespoons) egg white

3.17oz (90g) confectioner's/icing sugar

small pinch of cream of tartar
Cream of tartar is a stabiliser as such it makes the egg white/icing firmer (less runny) and it changes the colour of the icing from a greyish white to a 'whiter' white. Alternatively, replace with 3 - 4 drops of lemon juice although it will not have the effect of 'lightening' the icing sugar to a 'whiter' white. Do not add more cream of tartar/lemon as too much might sway the balance and have the opposite effect to what you want to achieve.

Method

Melt the gula melaka in a microwave on high power for 40 seconds. It will not have completely dissolved which is what you want.  Let the remaining gula melaka melt in the residual heat. 
As soon as all the gula melaka has melted, stir in the milk and vanilla essence. This brings down the temperature and prevents the gula melaka from solidifying. Set aside.
Remove the butter from the refrigerator and allow it to soften before use. Soften means when you push on the butter with your finger, there is a firm give. The feel would be somewhat similar to when you use your finger to push into a firm pillow/cushion.

Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda, salt and spices. Remember to adjust spices to suit your taste. I like the gingerbread lightly spiced so I go with the lowest measurements. Set sifted ingredients aside.

If you have a KitchenAid, on medium-high speed, use the flat beater to cream the softened butter with the brown sugar until a lighter shade and creamy. Alternatively, use a whisk to cream.

With the machine on low, add the cooled gula melaka/milk mixture and cream until thick and creamy.
Stop the machine, stir to fully incorporate batter and turn the machine back on low and gradually add in the dry ingredients.

Once it has been incorporated, turn off the machine. Do not over mix. If any further mixing is required, use a spatula instead. The dough would be soft and should look similar to the image below, if not add up to 1/4 cup of flour.
Transfer the dough into a large food safe plastic bag. The following method outlined below, is the way that I now roll out and store dough or pastry. It reduces clean up, mess and over flouring and overworking the dough.

Roll out the dough between 1/4" to 1/8" (0.63 cm to 0.31cm). Fold in the open end of the plastic bag so that you can roll out a neat and even rectangle.
Transfer to a flat baking sheet and refrigerate until firm. 

Do not skip this step otherwise the dough will be too soft to cut into neat gingerbread shapes. It won't hurt to refrigerate the dough longer either as it develops flavour.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and onto a silicon baking sheet if you have one. This secures the plastic bag and prevents it from shifting.

With the dough still in the plastic bag, level out the dough with a rolling pin if necessary.

With scissors or a sharp knife, slice off the top of the plastic bag to reveal the dough. Dust your cookie cutters lightly with flour before using.
Have your silicon baking sheet/parchment paper lined baking sheet ready.

As this dough can be rather soft and pliable, it helps if you use a rectangle cake server/bench scraper to transfer and lift the larger sized gingerbread (those that are (6")(15cm)) onto the waiting baking tray. These cookies expand marginally. Spacing them 1/4" (0.63cm) apart will do.

The other advantage of having rolled the dough out in a plastic bag is that you can slip your fingers under the plastic bag to help you pop up the cut cookie dough with less of a chance of mangling the dough. 

Gather dough bits and use the plastic sheet it is sitting on to wrap it into a loose square/rectangle parcel. Roll to flatten and cut out more gingerbread. Bake as soon as dough has been cut, if not refrigerate on tray. Do not leave on the table. Cold dough straight into hot oven will bake cookies with the sharpest edge/corners.

Bake in 320F (160C) oven, middle rack for 13 to 15 minutes. Rotate the baking sheet half way into baking. They are done when the dough has changed colour and the outsides of the gingerbread cookies are a slightly darker shade.


Leave on tray to cool (as they are still too soft) and then transfer to cooling racks.

Now, you cannot eat the cookies the day you bake them. They will be rock hard! 

It's not an issue as you would need to let the cookies cool, ice them and then leave them overnight for the icing to completely dry. Then, the icing will not only retain its sharp looks, the gingerbread cookies will look adorable and they will taste soft, chewy and fudgy as a gingerbread cookie should.

Royal icing

As the amount of royal icing we are making is a very small amount (yet sufficient to ice all these cookies with outlines), it would be ridiculous to bring out your mixer. So use either an immersion blender with the whisk attachment attached or your arm muscles!

In your mixing bowl, add the icing sugar and the small pinch of cream of tartar. Stir to combine.

Add the egg white and stir in the icing sugar so that it will not fly all over once you start whisking.

Start by whisking on low speed and working up to high speed until the icing is thick and white.
Scrape into a piping bag or a heavy duty plastic bag (freezer bags are hardier). Seal it completely shut so that icing does not dry out. I refrigerate mine, if I am not using straight away.
Only start to ice the cookies when they are completely cooled and allow to air dry overnight before storing in air-tight containers.

Tips
What's gula melaka and why do I use it?

Let's start with 'Why?' 

Because I can find more uses for gula melaka and I am more likely to find a block of gula melaka sitting in the inner depths of my pantry than treacle, molasses or golden syrup. After making gingerbread cookies, I have no more use for treacle, molasses or golden syrup.

With gula melaka, I can eat those little nuggets on its own. It could be sprinkled over ice cream, pancakes or it could be stuffed inside a ball of dough made from steamed mashed sweet potatoes and tapioca starch, which is then boiled in hot water, drained and rolled in fresh grated coconuts.  They are called 'ondeh ondeh' and I can eat a lot of it.

Gula melaka can also be melted with a little water and turned into a syrup which can be poured over all sorts of puddings and to sweetened drinks (usually coconut based). 

What is it?

This is also labelled as 'palm sugar' and is produced in Malaysia. 'Gula' means sugar. "Melaka' is a city in the south west of Malaysia.  I use this in place of molasses, treacle or golden syrup. Better quality ones contain more palm and less refined sugar and are obviously sold in Malacca (anglicized spelling) itself. 

It is made from the sap of the flowers of palm trees, more often than not, the coconut. Sold in cylindrical blocks the size of a little teacup. 

It taste like very good quality soft dark brown sugar that has been packed tightly with a purer, richer yet softer taste compared to treacle, molasses or golden syrup. 

To put it in context, I will be very happy to munch on nuggets of gula melaka but I will not put a spoonful of treacle, molasses or golden syrup down my throat.

I had been taught to select gula melaka that looks darker and more densely packed.

Can be used melted, shaved/grated or cut into small nuggets. The easiest way to melt them is in a microwave. 

If not, over the stove over medium-low heat with the addition of a touch of liquid (usually water), to kick-start the melting and stir constantly. 

To prevent burning, remove from heat source, when it has almost melted. Any larger lumps will melt in the residual heat. 

Gula Melaka will re-solidify quickly as it cools. To prevent that from happening, either use quickly in its liquid form (although it will be hot) or add a little liquid before/during/after melting. 
WHAT'S COMING UP NEXT?                                                 
My 3 refreshing coolers for the upcoming festive season!
I am always impressed when I step into someone's home and find that the host/hostess has gone through the effort to prepare a special cocktail or a drink for teetotallers. 

With the holidays approaching, it is time to plan not only the food but the often neglected drinks menu. Here are my concoctions for the season:

1. Osmanthus & Apricot Drink With Konjac Jelly (konnyaku)
2. Zingy Mint, Lime & Lemongrass Infused Cooler
3. Frozen Red Raspberry Fizzy (my favourite)

Stay tuned.

Tuesday 17 November 2015

Limoncello-cured Salmon Ceviche With Crispy Shallots, Capers & Spicy Red Chillies



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Cure in sweet limoncello and lime. Sprinkle some fresh tarragon for its anise flavour. Top generously with crispy shallots for a contrast between savoury shallots and smooth succulent salmon. Finally, you must add a touch of cut chillies for heat and capers for that vinegary bite.  
I am quite addicted to this. I like cured seafood. I like sashimi. I like fried shallots. I like everything about this dish. I am going to have this again tonight. 
This is a dish that my dinner guests enjoy. Quite simple it is to whip up too and there is no cooking involved. 

If you do not have limoncello in your larder, there are substitutes. Scroll down to the ingredient list.
LIMONCELLO-CURED SALMON WITH CRISPY SHALLOTS, FRESH TARRAGON, CAPERS & RED CHILLIES
Prep:
10 minutes

Cook:

-

Inactive:

30 minutes and up to 1 hour

Level:

Easy

Makes:

Enough for 4 as an appetiser, 2 as a light lunch

Oven Temperature:

-

Can recipe be doubled?

Yes

Make ahead?

No
Just the ingredients

8.46oz (240g) pre-sliced sashimi style, sushi-grade salmon
To cure the salmon
1 Tablespoon neutral tasting oil 
1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoon limoncello
4 teaspoons lime/lemon juice
Zest of lime/lemon
1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon salt 
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
To top cured salmon just before serving
Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil ~1/2 - 1 Tablespoon
Squeeze of lime/lemon juice ~1 and 1/2 teaspoons
Sprinkle of salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 - 1 teaspoon tiny capers
1 small red chilli
~1/8 - 1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves
4 Tablespoons fried shallots/onions
Ingredients

8.46oz (240g) pre-sliced sashimi style, sushi-grade salmon
Sushi-grade tuna will be quite nice too. You can buy a fillet and slice it as thin as you like if you are not accustomed to the thickness of sashimi. The thinner the slice, the less time you need to cure the fish. I would estimate that 10 - 15 minutes would be sufficient.

To cure the salmon

1 Tablespoon neutral tasting oil 

1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoon limoncello
This is a lemon liqueur which gives a nice subtle sweetness. Substitute with moscato, prosecco, ouzo, vodka, mirin. Depending on the alcohol you choose to use, adjust or omit the amount of sugar called for (below). For instance, moscato can be very sweet and I would omit the sugar altogether. If you are a teetotaller, replace the limoncello with lime juice (use ~ 1/2 - 1 teaspoon) and adjust quantity of sugar.

4 teaspoons lime juice
Lemon will do as well.

Zest of limes
Use the zest from the lime(s)/lemon(s) which you would be squeezing juice from.

1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon salt 
The cure should have sufficient salt. It should taste somewhat like a vinaigrette.

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

To top cured salmon just before serving

Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil ~1/2 - 1 Tablespoon or to taste

Squeeze of lime/lemon juice ~1 and 1/2 teaspoons or to taste

Sprinkle of salt and pepper to taste

1/2 - 1 teaspoon tiny capers or to taste

1 small red chilli, sliced thinly into rings

~ 1/8 - 1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves
Substitute with any soft-leaf (comparatively sweet tasting) herb such as oregano and dill. Parsley, thyme and celery are too harsh for this dish. Use as much or as little herb as you like. I like a lot of tarragon in this dish. Tear the leaves up before sprinkling to get the best flavours out of it.

4 Tablespoons fried shallots/onions
I prefer the fried shallots that are packed in Thailand. They are crispy and sweet. I like to keep a separate pile of fried shallots on the side so that I can sprinkle more on the salmon as I eat. So clearly 4 Tablespoons is not sufficient for me.

Method

With a whisk, incorporate all the ingredients for curing the salmon.

Pour the mixture into a vessel that can fit all the sliced salmon in a single layer.
Coat each slice of salmon in the mixture and let the salmon cure for 30 minutes and up to 1 hour, covered in plastic wrap in the refrigerator. Sashimi cut salmon is sliced ~1/8" (0.31cm) so it can sit in the citrusy mixture for a longer period of time without the taste and texture of the salmon being ruined.

If you choose to slice the salmon thinner, reduce the time the salmon sits in the citrusy mixture. I estimate that 10 - 15 minutes would be more than sufficient.

Plating it up

Prepare all the ingredients that would be used for topping the salmon 5 minutes before you are ready to serve.

Taste a little slice of the cured salmon. Does it need more salt, lime, extra virgin olive oil? Keep a mental note of any seasoning adjustments required.

Transfer the cured salmon (discard the citrusy mixture) onto your serving platter.

Top the salmon in the order below, with:
  • Extra virgin olive oil ~ 1/2 - 1 Tablespoon or to taste
  • Squeeze of lime/lemon juice ~ 1 and 1/2 teaspoons or to taste
  • Sprinkle of salt and pepper to taste
  • 1/2 - 1 teaspoon tiny capers or to taste
  • Sliced red chillies 
  • ~ 1/8 - 1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves or to taste
  • 4 Tablespoons fried shallots/onions or to taste
Keep a bowl of fried shallots/onions on the side for your dinner guests to help themselves to.

Tips

Apart from tuna, sushi-grade white fish will work well with this recipe.
WHAT'S COMING UP NEXT?                                              
It's about time to start some Christmas baking!






Tuesday 10 November 2015

Cold Marinated Tomatoes



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These have to be made with whole tiny tomatoes. In just one bite, you want to be able to savour a burst of delicately flavoured tomato in your mouth.
If you are not averse to a little peeling which I find rather satisfying, making this tomato salad is easy. 

An uncomplicated vinaigrette is essential as it should accentuate and not mask the fresh taste of tomatoes. So rather than using all extra virgin olive oil, replace half of it with a neutral tasting oil. 

Finally, the tomatoes must be served very cold.
COLD MARINATED TOMATOES                                        
Prep:
20 minutes

Cook:


Quick blanch

Inactive:

6 hours to overnight

Level:

Easy

Serves:

3 to 4 as a salad

Oven Temperature:

-

Can recipe be doubled?

Yes

Make ahead?

Overnight
Just the ingredients
1.43lb (650g) grape tomatoes
Marinade
1 and 1/2 Tablespoons neutral tasting oil
1 and 1/2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar/apple cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Optional
Sprinkling of thinly sliced sweet basil leaves or fresh oregano
Ingredients

1.43lb (650g) grape tomatoes

Marinade
1 and 1/2 Tablespoons neutral tasting oil
1 and 1/2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar/apple cider vinegar
Do not use balsamic vinegar as its intense flavour will drown the taste of the tomatoes. Choose a light coloured, good quality vinegar so that the tomatoes keep its colour.
1 Tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Optional
Sprinkling of thinly sliced sweet basil leaves

Method


Score a little "X" on the base of each tomato. 

Boil a pot of water. Working in batches. Drop scored tomatoes in the boiling water for 10-15 seconds and remove with a slotted spoon. Drain in a colander. Move on to the next batch until all the tomatoes had their hot bath.

Do not keep them under boiling water for any longer than 15 seconds or the tomatoes will start to cook and soften.

When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, use a paring knife to remove the peel of the tomato. Start with the scored end of the tomato and peel downward. Discard the peels.
In the bowl where you will be marinating the tomatoes, mix all the marinating ingredients together and whisk well to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings. It should be slightly sweeter and saltier than you would like it. Do not overdose on the dried oregano, extra virgin olive oil and vinegar as these should act as a subtle underlying flavour. 

Gently add the tomatoes and stir in the marinade. Do not over mix. 4 or 5 gently turn with a wide face spoon should be sufficient. 
Cover and let it chill in the refrigerator for 6 hours and up to overnight. Any longer and I find that the flavour of the tomatoes get lost.

Before serving, taste to adjust seasoning. If you wish, sprinkle some freshly sliced sweet basil or oregano. Do not add fresh herbs any sooner as the flavour will overpower the tomatoes.

Serve with some crusty country loaf.

Tips

Great ways to eat cold marinated tomatoes
  • It's always good to serve this at a dinner party on a huge platter with some fresh buffalo mozzarella.
  • In addition to the fresh mozzarella, drape over some strips of salty, thinly sliced prosciutto.
WHAT'S COMING UP NEXT?                                               
If you like cerviche and sashimi, this lime and limoncello cured sashimi-grade salmon is for you.